Like many Toronto spots, famed pizza joint Pizzeria Libretto is evolving to survive these tough times for restaurants; now, it’s Bar Libretto. They will still be slinging Neapolitan pies, but there’s more focus on the cocktail and wine program (and a happy hour that happens not once but twice per day) and more of a late-night vibe, complete with weekend DJs.
Rocco Agostino, executive chef and co-founder of the Libretto Restaurant Group and Enoteca Sociale, enjoys embracing change. “Cooking without constraints really excites me these days. Not being bound to certain ingredients or flavour profiles lets me push outside the box and blend different styles together. I’m especially drawn to the flavours of Mexican cooking and the bold spices of the Middle East, and finding ways to marry those with an Italian approach,” he says. “That kind of freedom keeps the work inspiring.”
Want somewhere different to add to your usual restaurant rotation? Try these delicious eateries, courtesy of Agostino.
Best date-night spot
Botham’s, 2869 Dundas St. W.
“It’s super-cosy, close to home and the kind of place we can walk to for an easy, relaxed evening. The space has this worn-in, neighbourhood character with brick walls, tin ceilings and a wood-burning pizza oven at the back. It’s got a great cocktail program, the food is always consistent and I’m especially into their chicken liver pâté.”
Best bakery
Noctua Bakery, 3014 Dundas St. W.
“I stumbled on this local spot just by walking around the neighbourhood. My go-tos are the ham-and-cheese croissant or the morning bun. It’s this great hybrid of a croissant and a cinnamon roll, really flaky with a subtle sweetness. It’s the kind of bakery that feels like a real find.”
Hidden gem
Beast Pizza, 96 Tecumseth St.
“This is one of those spots where the people who know, know. It’s tucked away, laid-back and unfussy, and doesn’t have a ton of seats. The pizza is the real deal and genuinely stands out. They’re always bringing chefs in for collabs and getting creative with new ideas, which I love seeing. I’m especially excited to go back and try their beef-patty pizza.”
Repeat reservation
Tutti Matti, 364 Adelaide St. W.
“Alida Solomon is an incredible chef.”
The last best thing you ate
Gerrard St. Bakery, 635 Gerrard St. E.
“I’ve been on a bit of a tart tour lately, especially because I’ve been testing my own cross between a butter tart and a pastéis de nata; my favourite right now is from this place. They nail the perfect runniness with a great filling-to-shell ratio, and the tart itself is nice, crispy and light.”
Current obsession
Porzia’s, 319A Oakwood Ave.
“Italian food is always an obsession for me, especially lasagna. My nonna’s is still the one I’m always trying to replicate, but lately the lasagna here has been stuck in my mind. I haven’t tried it yet, but that perfect-looking square topped with a sprinkle of cheese is seared into my brain in the best way. It’s got to be my next stop for a lasagna fix.”
Best takeout
Tumi Dumpling House, 2904 Dundas St. W.
“It’s cheap and cheerful, which is exactly what you need some days. I usually order the pan-fried dumplings, either the pork and cabbage or the beef with celery and mushroom.”
Comfort food
Cherry Street Bar-B-Que, 275 Cherry St.
“I usually get a platter with ribs and brisket, and it always hits the spot. Lawrence La Pianta, the owner and pitmaster, knows exactly what he’s doing and you can taste the care in every bite. Nothing fancy or overthought, just BBQ that makes you feel good.”
Lunch spot
“Their Union Salad with organic greens, double-smoked bacon, chèvre, and rosti is one of those salads that I crave on the regular, and the steak tartare is always a hit. The cooking is simple in the best way, and the ingredients are treated with real care. It’s the kind of place where you can sit down for a quick lunch and end up staying longer than you planned.”
Best cocktail bar
Milou, 1375 Dundas St. W.
“Their happy-hour martinis are hard to beat. I always order a vodka martini, shaken, with olives. I like getting the saucissons to nibble on while I’m there, too. It’s one of those spots that always feels easy to settle into.”
