True story: My hairdresser was missing her go-to California Cabernet, so I drew up a list of worthy stand-ins. Because when it comes to good wine and good hair, we look out for each other. Here’s the exact list I gave her. Every bottle echoes the plush texture, ripe fruit and satisfying structure of Californian Cabernet — quietly elevating everything. Like a good haircut.
2022 Cono Sur Bicicleta Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile
This is a bargain-hunter’s dream. If it came from California and tasted like this, it would no doubt cost more than $10. Lush, dark and delicious, this classic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon teems with sumptuous aromas and flavours of fresh blackcurrants drizzled with cassis, as well as shavings of dark chocolate and roasted almond. Lip-smacking acidity balances the generous mid-palate stuffing, while polished tannins hem in the fruit. Nothing to overthink here. Just a delicious, inexpensive wine that drinks like it’s from the Golden State. (13% alc., 4 g/L sugar)
2023 Franc Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon Vin de France
This new wine was featured in my July 26 column and, by the end of the next day, well over 2,000 bottles were sold across the province, leaving more than 140 stores out of stock. But a glance at lcbo.com shows shelves are restocked. So snap it up because it’s a knockout buy that tastes like Black Forest cake. Boozy cherries, dark chocolate and cream on the nose and palate with a velvety texture and a touch of espresso on the finish. Easy win and brand new to Ontario. (12% alc., 3 g/L sugar)
2023 Catena High Mountain Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina
(Vintages 985002, $22.95)
From the unmistakable scent of Grandma’s blueberry pie — hot from the oven — to the rich folds of fruit that flood in and unfurl slowly, this expression of Cabernet Sauvignon will have you doing a double take on the price. It’s that good. Little wonder it’s a Vintages Essential. The smooth, cashmere crush of mixed berries tastes tightly wound and then unspools slowly to reveal layers of flavour. So it’s a bit cerebral. Allusions of chocolate mint, roasted red meat, cool stone and nuts tease the senses before tapering off. Sophisticated. (13.5% alc. 3 g/L sugar)
2024 Paul Mas Cabernet Sauvignon, Languedoc, France
This wine was a huge hit when it launched in 2023, but demand outstripped supply in the province and stocks ran low. Now, it’s back at the LCBO with 1,600 cases arriving at stores now. And the current vintage is just outstanding. It calls to mind bushels of fresh berries, ripe but not overripe, sunny and fresh. A mix of strawberry and blackberry aromas arrest the senses before the wines rolls in with power, balance and finesse — a crush of muddled dark fruit with spicy undertow of cracked black peppercorn. (14% alc. 5 g/L sugar)
2023 Barone Montalto Due Mondi Cabernet Sauvignon Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT, Italy
(LCBO 621151, $11 till Aug. 17, reg. $12)
This sweet-centred Cabernet Sauvignon Nero d’Avola blend from the sun-drenched island of Sicily delivers that fruit-forward, juicy-ripe hit of immediate pleasure found in so many Californian reds. The initial flush of blackcurrant flavour nails that Cabernet character beautifully before shifting toward slightly more savoury notes of coffee, olive and plum. A little rubbed oregano and white pepper score the fruit and emerge briefly on the finish. Though it’s not a long wine, it’s easy-drinking and offers terrific value. Call it a crowd-pleaser. (13.5% alc. 10 g/L of sugar)
2020 Marqúes de Riscal Rioja Reserva DOC, Spain
Though this wine is a Tempranillo-Graciano blend rather than a Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers that velvet richness, quiet hedonism and layered complexity that Cabernet lovers find so appealing — especially in more premium expressions. So this bottle is a brilliant stand in. From the beguiling fragrance of cherry-cedar-vanilla, roses, worn leather and fresh raspberry to the smooth, sumptuous entry, this wine is pure charm. Flavours cascade slowly, mirroring the aromas along with of cinnamon and sun-baked earth. Then, it tapers to a long, slow finish. (14.5% alc. 3 g/L)
