Canoe. Auberge du Pommier. Biff’s Bistro. As district executive chef for Oliver & Bonacini Hospitality, John Horne presides over some of Toronto’s best-known restaurants. (He also oversees La Plume and Maison Selby.)
He says Toronto is an incredible dining city because you can find flavours from all over the world here — often within a few blocks. “Chefs here cook with a lot of personality but stay rooted in the communities they’re part of,” Horne says. “What I love most is that a tiny counter spot and a big-name tasting menu can both be unforgettable and both feel equally Toronto.”
Here are a few must-nosh spots that epitomize Toronto dining excellence for Horne these days.
Mamakas Taverna, 80 Ossington Ave.
“I don’t get to Ossington often, but I’ll make the trip for Mamakas. I usually go straight for the lavráki (grilled sea bass), kotópoulo (half chicken) with horiátiki (tomato and cucumber salad with feta) and the tiganités patátes (triple-cooked hand-cut potatoes). I grab a Greek beer and a glass of Greek wine, sit on the patio and people-watch. The service is really good and the whole place has a nice, relaxed vibe. I always have a great time when I go.”
“It’s not a hidden gem in the traditional sense, but it is one of those places that has been so good for so long that it can get overlooked with so many new restaurants opening in the city. Tobey and Michael have poured their hearts and souls into that place, and you can feel it the moment you walk in. The hospitality is some of the best you will find and the cooking is flawless, detailed and really comes from a place of care. It is always one of the first restaurants I recommend to people and it is a fantastic choice for a special occasion.”
Le Sélect Bistro, 432 Wellington St. W.
“Everyone knows I’m a sucker for French food and Le Sélect is one of the OGs in the city. It’s been around since 1977. I’ve been going since I moved here in the early 2000s and it’s easily the restaurant I visit the most. The staff are some of the best in the city and the food always shifts a little when there’s a new chef, but it never loses its core roots. I love sitting at the bar. Côte de bœuf, tartare and foie terrine are some of my favourites. A glass of wine and good company? You really can’t go wrong.”
Costa Verde BBQ & Portuguese Grill House, 2764 Keele St.
“I tried this recently on someone’s recommendation and I have to say I am a little obsessed with it now. It also happens to be great takeout. Something about the BBQ chicken and hot sauce combo with the coleslaw and potatoes just hits. The tres leches cake is something else too, and I adore Portuguese custard tarts. Super quick in and out, cash only.”
Olde Yorke Fish & Chips, 96 Laird Dr.
“I discovered this place while researching for a new opening and it’s honestly some of the best fish and chips in the city. The cod, halibut and haddock are all good options: you can’t go wrong. They’ve got a cod-cheek app that’s great too. You can dine in or hit the takeout side. The place is always busy and that tells you everything you need to know.”
Bar Prima, 1136 Queen St. W.
“Their tiramisu is clean, thoughtful and well-executed. The room has a great energy to end the night on, and it is one of those spots where I never have to think too hard about what to order because I know it will be good.”
Best late-night craving spot
The Owl of Minerva, various locations
“It was and still is my go-to spot after a late shift. I always get the pork-bone soup, kalbi, spicy rice cakes and usually a few other things depending on how hungry I am. I have taken a lot of guest chefs there over the years because it is one of the few places open 24 hours and it always delivers on flavour.”
Favourite weekend brunch place
Yu Seafood, various locations
“I really enjoy dim sum on the weekends. I like being able to order a bunch of little dishes, mix and match and try a bit of everything. Dishes I always order are har gow (shrimp dumplings), cha siu bao (BBQ pork buns), cheung fun (steamed rice noodle rolls), wu gok (fried taro dumplings), ma lai go (steamed sponge cake), lo bak go (turnip cake) and lo mai gai (sticky rice).”
