Shaking up the province’s wine sales scene, Costco now sells wine in Ontario, as of today. While you won’t find Costco’s own Kirkland Signature wines here, the buyer is certainly on the ball because the smart selection of domestic and imported wines is quite good. Here are six of the best on shelf at my local Coscto now.
A creamy white
2023 Speck Brothers Family Tree The Goat Lady Chardonnay VQA Chardonnay
(Costco $13.99, LCBO $16.95)
From the orange Creamsicle nose to the bright sweep of vinosity that follows, this wine marries richness with freshness beautifully. The wine tastes saturated and pure with toasty oak notes threading the lit, ripe pear-lemon centre. As each sip recedes, a touch of orange zest and hazelnut persist briefly on the finish. Short but keeping you sipping, this wine pairs especially well with melted cheese dishes such as a big, steaming pot of fondue served with squares of toasted sourdough, a good fettuccine alfredo or a simple grilled cheese sandwich. Score: 90
A snappy white
2023 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
(Costco $18.99, LCBO $21.95)
This pale, vibrant white swirls with bright grapefruit aromas laced with lemongrass and freshly torn herbs before beaming in cool and polished tasting. Each silky sip starts with a slick lick of passion fruit and lime then shifts toward light allusions of jalapeno, sea salt and crushed oyster shell — tasted and almost felt on the persistent finish. The wine is dry and zesty, juicy yet elegant with lots going on and wonderfully harmonious. Serve this Sauvignon Blanc on its own, with a batch of cauliflower nachos or fish and chips. Score: 93
A sparkling
La Marca Prosecco DOC, Italy
(Costco: $18.99, LCBO $22.95)
Wildly popular in Ontario for good reason, this Prosecco tastes delicate and immediately enchanting. Aromas flit from sliced pear and apple to beeswax and marzipan. The attack is crisp and clean with a soft, creamy mousse. And flavours suggest candied almond and honey as well as salted lemon and baked pear. With impeccable balance and more complexity and finesse than many Proseccos, this wine is a winner. It is extra dry, which means it’s slightly sweeter than a Brut style. And it pairs perfectly with a bowl of salted pistachios. Score: 92
A light red
2023 Folonari Valpolicella Classico DOC, Veneto, Italy
(Costco $24.99/1.5L; LCBO $26.95 till Nov. 10, reg. $29.95/1.5L)
Juicy bright and affable, this red in the larger format is the ultimate party pour. It’s supremely drinkable with a light 12.5 per cent alcohol. And each sip slips in with a crush of ripe summer berries with quietly earthy underpinnings and a white pepper finish. Bone-dry but not at all austere, this friendly quencher is just the kind of wine that keeps you topping up. It’s also the ultimate food wine, enhancing anything you serve with it while not upstaging the meal or the moment. Easy way to serve a crowd. Score: 92
A big red
2022 Bread & Butter Cabernet Sauvignon, California 1.5L
(Costco $29.95/1.5L; LCBO $34.95/1.5L)
This wine is wildly popular. The minimal label and branding resonate with a lot of wine lovers, and now Costco lops $5 off the price. So the value is even better than at the LCBO. The wine is a classic Californian Cabernet that delivers a smooth, velvety wash of black forest fruit and creamy mocha then becomes a lattice of fruit, coffee, hazelnut and vanilla, which persists on the finish. Easy-drinking crowd-pleaser that’s ripe-fruited, varietally appropriate and well-balanced. And priced to want to buy it in magnum and have your friends around. Score: 91
Serious fizz
NV Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne, France
(Costco $69.95; LCBO $86)
This non-vintage Champagne delivers the classic fine Champagne experience at a reasonable price. Tiny bubbles thread the glass like a string of pearls, bursting on the surface and releasing delicate aromas of baked goods — apple pie, lemon curd and toasty-buttery brioche. The wine shines pale straw yellow and bright, and the attack immediately tantalizes — a cascade of elegant orchard fruit, seashell, lemon tart, candied almond and dry biscuity notes. The complexity persists on the finish making each sip feel like a little journey. At $16 less that at the LCBO — it’s a bargain. Score: 92
