PARIS (AP) — Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into the storied archives of Christian Dior for her latest haute couture collection Monday, exploring the transformations of time.
The accomplished spring 2025 show — one of Chiuri’s best in seasons — drew from the key silhouettes of Dior’s iconic past designers, such as Yves Saint Laurent, and infusing them with her distinct contemporary vision.
The show was a commentary on how fashion serves as a lens for understanding time.
Key inspirations included the Trapèze line, originally conceived by Saint Laurent in 1958, and Christian Dior’s Cigale silhouette from 1952, both updated with modern fabrics.
The looks: where past meets present
Chiuri’s vision unfolded with flowing capes adorned with organza-crafted feathers, shimmering black coats embroidered with three-dimensional silver, and lace-trimmed tulle skirts that evoked a sense of playful nostalgia. Crinolines were reimagined as ethereal cages with embroidered branches, and moiré-tailcoat miniskirt ensembles added bold, modern contrasts to classic silhouettes.
A standout piece included a burnished silver gown shimmering with intricate embroidery, creating a sense of movement and transformation. Another highlight featured a cape of delicate petals that turned the model into a surreal flower-woman, blending whimsy with couture precision.
The show garnered a rare standing ovation from powerful U.S. Vogue chief Anna Wintour.
The show unfolded in the picturesque gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris, attended by guests including actress Jenna Ortega, the star of Netflix’s Wednesday, and Anya Taylor-Joy, known for her role in The Queen’s Gambit.
Sports icon Venus Williams brought her commanding presence to the event, while Pamela Anderson and French actress and model Laetitia Casta were also present. Dior ambassador Kim Jisoo further underscored the house’s international appeal.
Setting and artistry in harmony
The venue itself was part of the spectacle. The walls were adorned with a large-scale textile installation titled “The Flowers We Grew,” created by Indian artist Rithika Merchant and translated into fabric by the Chanakya School of Craft. The artwork drew on stories of womanhood across generations, blending botanical motifs and universal symbols.
Dior’s commitment to supporting women artists shone through, with this interdisciplinary collaboration highlighting the craftsmanship of Merchant and the Chanakya ateliers. Following the show, the public will have the chance to view the installation in the Rodin museum gardens from Jan. 28 to Feb. 2.
