When
Isabelle Mathieu
told me the average visit to
Le Nordik Spa Village
lasts seven hours, I was skeptical.
But I soon realized that Mathieu, who’s the general manager of the establishment, was right. It’s easy to lose track of time as you’re traipsing between the saunas,
pools and cold plunges
of North America’s largest thermotherapy spa, which is not to be confused with a spa that provides beauty services.
In fact, it happened to me a few times during a recent visit to the water-guzzling landmark built 20 years ago on the side of a steep hill in
Chelsea, the charming west Quebec village
about a 15-minute drive from downtown Ottawa.
One minute, I was relaxing in a hammock in a shady corner of the silent zone, listening to the birds as I took the recommended rest period after multiple rounds of hot-cold thermal cycle. Half an hour later, I woke up, only to realize I had missed a scheduled ritual and would have to wait for the next one.
Then it happened again. While waiting for the next of the hourly sauna rituals, I decided to check out the much-hyped Kalla pool, a $55 add-on to the price of admission.
The first thing you notice as you descend to the darkened Kalla deck is the ocean-like smell of the Epsom-saturated water. Once my eyes got accustomed to the dim light, I saw I was one of only two or three people in the pool at that moment, meaning there would be little chance of bumping into anyone.
I lay back in the knee-deep water and, again, time melted away. I didn’t fall asleep, but a good 30 minutes must have passed as I floated gently, feeling much like an untethered lily pad in a perfectly still pond on a moonless night.
Drat. I missed another ritual.
By now, I’m sure you’re wondering what’s so special about these so-called rituals. Put simply, they’re guided experiences with music and essential oils inside a steam sauna. The practice was apparently dreamed up in Europe to encourage people to stay in a sauna longer and prevent the air from getting stale.
Studies show that regular sauna activity is good for health, with a host of benefits to the cardiovascular, neurological and immune systems, not to mention longevity. The trick is to stay in the heat for 15-20 minutes, which can seem like an eternity for cool-climate creatures such as ourselves.
At Nordik, you can build your heat tolerance through rituals. The Aufguss schedule features an eight-minute ‘discovery’ version for newbies, a 16-minute ‘artisan’ version and a 16-minute meditative counterpart. There’s also a unique Arboreal ritual created in-house that was inspired by the forests of the Outaouais region.
I had started my day with the Arboreal edition. The saunamaster (or “ritual artisan,” as the company describes the position) wielded birch branches with leaves attached, and took the swimsuit-clad audience of about two dozen through an imaginary forest.
He followed a loosely scripted arc that involved rain, heat and a welcome cool breeze, which was summoned by opening both doors of the sauna. I was in the middle row next to the natural rock face that formed one wall of the steamy room, hoping for a cooling effect, but no. The rock held the heat.
So, how hot was it? I was told it was about 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit at the start and climbed. It was so hot that you’re advised not to wear eyeglasses because the heat could warp the lenses. It was so hot that one woman left the sauna just a few minutes into it. It was so hot that sweat was dripping into my eyes and down my back. It was gruelling.
The reward came afterwards, in the form of an ice-cold rinse in the manmade waterfall next to the sauna. It left me feeling refreshed, exhilarated and ready to face anything.
The Aufguss ritual was a similar experience in a bigger sauna (with windows) but with music, movement and aromatherapy components provided by the saunamaster. I made it to an early-afternoon session led by a woman named Megan, who briefly outlined what was to come and explained her essential oil choices.
Accompanied by a selection of atmospheric songs, Megan placed a snowball infused with essential oil on the rocks and pressed it with an oversized spoon. Then she began to move around the room like a dancer, dispersing the steam by waving a white towel over her head and behind her back in a graceful choreographic routine.
Believe it or not, Aufguss is a competitive event that’s popular in Europe and just starting to catch on in Canada. Groupe Nordik has been encouraging practitioners at each of its three locations – Chelsea, Whitby and Winnipeg – and hosted the country’s first national championship in its Whitby facility.
Competitors are scored on components such as their towel technique, theme, atmosphere and professionalism.
Megan would get top marks from me, except that I was so engaged in watching her movement that I lost the thread of the performance and didn’t really get into the zone. No worries, I thought. Now that I know what to expect, I’ll catch another session and relax more.
Well, I never did get back to the rituals on that visit, partly because I lost track of time. I also got hungry and had to decide whether to eat at the restaurant or the shack, the new eatery next to the panoramic pool.
I chose the restaurant, and enjoyed a superb (but pricey, at $36) entree of perfectly cooked Arctic char on a dill-enhanced potato salad with sautéed greens. The menu at the shack was less expensive, featuring burgers, pizza and tacos. It’s aimed at the lunch crowd and closes at 6 p.m.
To me, the cherry on top of a day at Nordik was a cocktail in the infinity pool, the big pool that has a panoramic view of the valley, the cityscape off in the distance. The most social spot of the village, it seemed to be a popular spot for the after-work crowd as couples and friend groups settled in the warm water to await the sunset.
Le Nordik is open until 11 p.m. daily, with lighting design throughout the village creating a magical vibe after dark. Once you’re in, you can stay as long as you want.
As tempting as it was, I didn’t stay for the evening. Instead, I unloaded the white towel and grey robe supplied to every guest into the laundry chute and headed for the change room, which was as clean and well-equipped as the rest of the village.
I should point out the biggest drawback at Nordik: the stairs. Several staircases take you up the hill from the parking lot, and there are a few more stairs on site, making it unsuitable for the less mobile.
The cost may also be a deterrent. The daily rate is $98, plus taxes, with extra charges to access the Kalla pool, massage therapy and other body and facial treatments. It’s open year-round, even in the rain and snow.
I visited on a partly cloudy, breezy mid-week day that was not too hot and not too busy. The facility covered my costs, but I’d be happy to visit again on my own dime to celebrate a special occasion or treat a loved one.
Next time, I’ll stay for the evening. And I’ll be sure to keep an eye on the clock to catch every ritual I can.
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