An elegant, all-black collection at Valentino in Paris. Milan runways full of neutral-coloured and, frankly, forgettable suiting. Dresses made out of moulded steel at Seán McGirr’s Alexander McQueen debut.
If the Spring 2024 runways were marked by promising, creative and definitive new directions, the recent womenswear shows offered a flurry of mixed signals for Fall 2024.
Some designers opted to stick with tried-and-true (sometimes staid) formulas, while others presented almost theatrical collections, with pieces that might be considered more wearable art than ready-to-wear.
In between, there were the rarer collections that expertly walked the line between art and commerce — foregrounding beautifully constructed garments, interesting proportions, and novel combinations of colours and textures that are sure to influence the way we dress in the seasons to come.
Ahead, six of our favourite fashion trends for Fall 2024.
In the trenches
Trench coats are pretty much a year-round fashion essential these days (owing to climate change), and designers showed many covetable iterations of the classic outerwear style on the fall and winter season runways.
Highlights included the asymmetrical coats with front — and centred — pockets at Courrèges, the reconstructed styles at Sacai (the brand’s specialty) and a tent-like trench at The Row.
Boldly styled bodysuits
If turtlenecks were the must-have layering piece just a few seasons ago, this season, it’s all about the bodysuit. At Rick Owens’s Paris show, knit versions were worn over tights and styled with matching hoods, and colourful one-pieces, worn as tops with the snaps undone, appeared on the Fendi runway in Milan.
Long-sleeved nappa leather and fabric bodysuits were styled with just boots and bags at Acne Studios, while models sported delicate bodysuits under maxi coats at Stella McCartney’s show in Paris.
Knotted knits
Knits this season were styled in interesting — and easy-to-imitate — ways: draped over shoulders and attached or tied on to other garments, rather than worn more conventionally. At shows like 16Arlington and Michael Kors, thick crewnecks and sweaters doubled as scarves — a classic preppy styling trick — while the off-kilter knits at Dries Van Noten and Fendi, though more enveloping, granted the looks a déshabillé feel.
Hood range
Hoods had a moment for Fall 2023. For Fall 2024, the humble jersey hoodie itself became a favoured mid-layer on the runways, too. They appeared under blazers, denim jackets and leather toppers at Helmut Lang and Coach, and were styled for both day and evening at Undercover.
A wide angle
Shown with matching tops, tailored suiting and oversized coats, wide-leg trousers made a big and bold impression at shows like Jil Sander, Loewe and Tod’s. It’s all about getting the fit right — instead of just grazing the floor, these oversized, slouchy pants were designed to pool slightly, even on statuesque models.
The fuzz factor
We’ve seen them in seasons past, but there was a notable (concerning?) number of designers embracing furry, shaggy and even floor-sweeping footwear in their Fall 2024 collections. Among the styles were feather-embellished and -covered heels and flats at Ferragamo and Erdem, and shoes with leather fringe at Tod’s.
