Let’s be honest: A lot of wines with high prices are just overrated status symbols. But some are worth the splurge. For less than a forgettable meal out, you could pour a deeply satisfying bottle you’ll remember for years. Read on for six excellent wines worth every cent — including a knockout Champagne, a brilliant Brunello, an undervalued sub-$20 Pecorino and more.
NV Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut Champagne, France
Score 93
(LCBO 384529, $100)
More than a wine purchase, this bottle is a sound investment in pure pleasure. This quiet powerhouse shines pale gold and packs more intensity than most non-vintage Champagnes. The nose is heady and rich, calling to mind gingersnap and roasted pear with a touch of fine lemon zest. The attack is vivid and fresh, then unfolds slowly, deliberately with oven-fresh pear crumble, crushed walnut, honeyed apple and fresh lemon. This detailed, pedigreed expression of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier — in that order — is deep, long and very exciting. (12% alc., 9g/L sugar)
2020 Marqúes de Riscal Rioja Reserva DOC, Spain
Score 96
(LCBO 32656, $32.15)
This hand-harvested, Tempranillo-Graciano blend stands tall as one of the best bottles on shelf under $35. And it has been for years. The bouquet begins with a hushed, contemplative fragrance of cherry-cedar-vanilla, roses, worn leather and fresh raspberry. The entry is calm and measured, but bold, too. Think sumptuous lamplit fruit hemmed in by velvet tannins. The flavours mirror the aromas, while finer brush strokes of sun-baked earth, cinnamon and beetroot emerge and linger. This is an approachable red sure to appeal to seasoned drinkers and those new to wine. (14.5% alc., 3g/L)
2021 Muga Rioja Reserva DOC, Spain
Score 93
(Vintages Essential 177345, $28.95)
If you enjoy big, fruit-packed reds without a lot of sugar, you’ll love this inky-dark Rioja reserva. Brawny blackberry and graphite aromas draw you toward the surge of muddled black fruit, dark chocolate and black earth. Rolling in like thunder, this broad-shouldered, muscular blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano commands attention with wild-berried goodness etched with cocoa, toast and cream. Then, it slowly retreats leaving the palate seasoned with hazelnut and soul-warming clove. Excellent value, consistently good and certainly deserving of its status as a Vintages Essential. (14.5% alc., 3g/L sugar)
2019 Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy
Score 93
(Vintages Essential 650432, $55.95)
Brunello di Montalcino is about understated power and finesse. It’s one of Italy’s most respected red wine styles, alongside Barolo and Amarone. And this bottle is a reminder of why. The nose calls to mind a warm Mediterranean summer with scents of anise cookies and coffee, black olive and plum jam, oregano and sea salt. It’s soft, beguiling. On the palate, the wine tastes sculpted with a sophisticated suede texture. Flavours ebb and flow seductively, before retreating to a tapered finish of bitter chocolate and stone. (14.5% alc. 3g/L sugar)
2023 Ferzo Pecorino Superiore, DOC Abruzzo, Italy
Score 93
(Vintages Essential 573683, $17.95)
This fresh-faced Pecorino, which is the grape variety, could sell for more than it does. It’s a beautiful white wine that immediately puts you in nature with its fresh scents of green orchard fruits — pear and apple — and ocean breezes. The attack is swift and sunny, steely but weighty, too, with flavours of baked Granny Smith, pineapple and lime. Then, a salty snap on the finish scrapes the palate clean. Popular for good reason, this juicy Pecorino is a brilliant discovery. (13% alc. 4g/L sugar)
NV Veuve Ambal Grande Cuvée Brut Crémant de Bourgogne, France
Score 91
(LCBO 429688, $22.90)
If you love Champagne, but the prices run a bit steep for your budget, reach this crémant — it’s a French sparkling made in the traditional method, like Champagne, from outside that fancy wine region. Bright and beautiful, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay seasoned with dashes each of Aligote and Gamay, starts with gentle scents of candied almond and French apple tart, lemon curd and meringue with to more of the same on the palate scored with a flinty minerality. The tiny bubbles rachet up the refreshment factor. Just a delight. (12% alc. 10g/L sugar)