If you’re still missing your favourite bottle of Californian Chardonnay, you’re not alone. From the bright-fruited, tinglingly fresh versions from Monterey to the voluptuous versions from Sonoma, that wine was popular for good reason. But Chardonnay is the most planted white wine grape in the world. So here are your top six alternatives — starting with three new arrivals.
2022 Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Ont.
The richness of this local lovely is immediately arresting. The fragrance of lemon curd slathered on a toasty, flaky butter croissant leads to a full, generous entry. A weighty swath of silk, smooth and shimmeringly fresh, catching the light as it moves — who knew you could taste light. That luminescence seems almost opalescent. Tender orchard fruit, seashells, fresh almonds, custard tarts. Then, the lemon curd found on the nose emerges again and persists. Gorgeous, good value fine wine that’s drinking beautifully right now. (13.5% alc., 2g/L sugar)
2023 El Enemigo Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina
(Vintages 482984, $29.95)
Tasted blind, you’d swear this was from California. It’s got all the hallmarks — succulent fruit, oodles of oak — and the rich complexity that comes from those two elements when crafted carefully. It’s worth every cent of the $30 price. From the orange crème brûlée aroma to the round, citrusy flood of flavour imbued with cool vanilla, smoked stone, sea salt, bitter orange and toffee, this lush yet sophisticated wine is a just a delight. And the long pralines-and-cream finish elongates the pleasure. (13% alc., 2g/L sugar)
2022 Inniskillin Reserve Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula
New to LCBO as of June of this year, this Monterey-esque expression of Chardonnay starts with the aroma of French lemon tart — bright, inviting and a bit decadent. That fetching fragrance gives way to a generous sweep of creamy-crisp goodness with both weight and verticality. Ripe fruit drenches the palate tasting cool and glossy, seamless and pure. That rich slip of lemon curd and pear unfolds slowly threaded with roasted nut, pumpkin spice and a touch of butterscotch that persists on the finish. A gem from Ontario. (13% alc. 2g/L sugar)
2024 Lindeman’s Bin 65 Chardonnay, South Eastern Australia
Recommended in this column earlier this year as a smart alternative to a Californian Chardonnay, this wine is bang on stylistically for those who crave richer styles of oaked Chardonnay. From the immediate vanilla cupcake aromas to the surging flavours of juicy pear, baked apple and pineapple laced with vanilla, sweet butter and caramel, it tastes like so many popular expressions from the Golden State — but at a very low price. And very consistent vintage to vintage. (13.5% alc., 5g/L sugar)
2023 Santa Rita Reserva Especial Chardonnay, Chile
New to Ontario, this too is a bargain alternative to Californian Chardonnays that taste like sunshine in a glass. Aromas of apple and pineapple with a touch of sliced honeydew melon lead to a slow, rich, full-weighted flush of flavour. The sun-soaked fruit tastes juicy and bright, calling to mind baked Granny Smith, roasted pear and lemon zest with a touch of vanilla somewhere. Then, it tapers slowly to a gentle orange-peel finish. While the wine tastes full-fruited and sweet-centred, it’s surprisingly low in alcohol and sugar. (12.5% alc., 3g/L sugar)
2024 Calmel & Joseph Villa Blanche Chardonnay, IGP Pays d’Oc, France
This seductive rendition Chardonnay from the Languedoc region in southern France shines lemon yellow and draws you in with wonderfully tropical scents. Think fresh coconut milk drizzled over pineapple, peach and papaya. That’s exactly how it smells. Then, it floods in with more of the same, a lovely creaminess tempering the bracing freshness. Hints of honey butter on French bread, passion fruit and vanilla bean emerge slowly on the finish and linger. This long-standing LCBO listing tends to offer good value year in, year out. (13% alc. 3g/L sugar)
