Many of us are doing our best to drink local. So here’s a look at the most exciting bottles under $15 at the LCBO from our very own province. These prices don’t include HST as part of the federal tax break that includes wine. But act fast. The HST is back in effect February 16.
2023 Château des Charmes Cuvée Michelle Aligoté, VQA St. David’s Bench (LCBO 296848, $14.15)
Tinglingly fresh, bone dry and restrained, this expression of Ontario Aligoté is a fabulous, all-purpose crisp white. The nose nods toward lemon-lime and wet stones. If sunlight had a fragrance, this would be it. Then, it floods in with immediacy and luminosity — the citrusy centre etched with a clean brininess and minerality. Then, it tapers to a long, slow finish. Sure to appeal to lovers of Pinot Grigio, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay — unoaked, of course — this is an unassuming gem of a wine that might become a house favourite.
2023 Bella Terra Vineyards Cabernet Merlot VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 37954, $14.15)
This wine tastes like a cross between a Chianti and New World Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s crisp and earthy with a juicy, ripe centre. It starts with the compelling scent of blackberry jam slathered on toast. It echoes those allusions on the palate. Then it cascades with juicy black cherry, roasted hazelnut and white pepper — the latter emerging texturally on the finish. It’s a fabulously food friendly wine that’s medium-bodied and bone dry with a certain stately classicism. Fun fact: Bella Terra means beautiful land, the name given to the winery by the Italian-born family that founded it in 1974 and still run it today.
2023 Creekside Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 620724, $14.15)
Fans of full-throttle Sauvignon Blanc from such places as Chile and New Zealand will love this sassy local expression. Each glassful erupts with gooseberry and lime aromas and then slides with quenching, crystalline vinosity. The vibrant lemon-lime entry quickly shifts toward sliced pineapple and kiwi fruit with a touch of herbaceousness emerging at the edges. Vivacious, poised and glossy-bright, this dry white packs serious value for the money. It’s delicious with Ontario goat cheese — on crackers or baked into a soufflé. But it also works well with a simple meal of pasta and peas.
2023 Magnotta Pinot Grigio Venture Series VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 574533, $14.15)
This pale, shiny Pinot Grigio starts with the soft fragrance of lemon cream. Then, it slips in tasting satiny-smooth and seamless due to impeccable balance. Flavours start with sliced juicy pear then shift toward Honeycrisp apple and lemon zest. This wine’s gift is its sleek mouthfeel, pure-fruited goodness and persistent finish with a touch of texture — the light grip lends interest. More forward than a classic Italian Pinot Grigio, there’s lots to like about this local wine. And it’s delicious with pan-fried pork chops with roasted root vegetables.
2023 Trius Cabernet Franc VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 587964, $15.95)
Inexpensive reds from Ontario have come a long way. And this wine proves that happy fact once again. Each swirl of the glass releases beautiful, rich and heady scents. Just a wonderfully perfumed wine with cassis-drizzled black forest fruit, roasted almond and nutty vanilla bean. Then, a saturated, mouth-filling flood of flavour ensues. The generous fistful of black forest fruit tastes bold and satisfying, while layers of black peppercorn and dark cocoa emerge and persist. This is an intense red despite its mere 13 per cent alcohol. Good value.
2023 Strewn Barrel Aged Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 522730, $15.05)
This wine recommended recently in this column deserves another mention because it’s just so good. If your go-to white is oaked Californian Chardonnay, reach for this instead. It’s stylistically similar. Bakery scents of oven-fresh brioche and apple pie lead to a weighty wash of fruit that calls to mind orange zest, lemon curd, toasty oak, toffee and butter pastry. On the finish, you’ll find a crush of roasted nuts. Just a delightful wine for the money. It’s fabulous with all sorts of foods but especially fettuccine alfredo or sheet-pan chicken legs.
