There may be mere weeks until Labour Day, but barbecue season still has months to go.
To many Torontonians, lighting up the grill, getting the proteins and veg sizzling, filling the fridge with icy drinks and calling over friends and family to enjoy the smoky spoils is one of the best things about summer.
But many of us rarely look past hot dogs and burgers. Plus, one burnt patty can leave you wondering where you’re going wrong, and how to make the most of the grill’s power.
Right now, Toronto is teeming with experts on this subject as some of the city’s hottest restaurants specialize in barbecue. So we asked three sought-after chefs for their top grilling tricks, marinade blends and what they love to serve when they’re hosting at home.
Whether you’re cooking on a campfire, charcoal grill or gas barbecue, in a garden or on a tiny patio, take note of their tips and get grilling.
Edward Bang, chef of Takja BBQ
Edward Bang really knows his way around a grill. Seven nights a week at Takja BBQ, the Michelin-recommended Korean barbecue house on College Street he founded with Jeff Kang, he and his team expertly grill a parade of delicacies — Ontario hanger steak, dry-aged Wagyu rib-eye, short rib galbi, Iberico pluma — tableside for guests’ enjoyment. When cooking at home, Bang also prefers to grill — who’s surprised? He puts the same care into preparing the smart cuts, spicy-sweet Korean marinades and thoughtful sides for his family and friends.
The flavourful marinade: At home, Bang loves to make a beef short rib dish called Suwon galbi (Suwon is a city known for its galbi). “It uses salt instead of soy sauce in the marinade, which helps prevent the meat from burning while emphasizing the flavour and quality of the short rib,” he said. “The marinade is simple: salt, black pepper, sesame oil, garlic and sugar.”
The essential condiment: At Takja, anything grilled is served with a house-made ssamjang — a condiment that’s sweet, spicy, bitter and savoury, all at once. “It’s a must when it comes to Korean barbecue,” said Bang.
“Combining doenjang, gochujang, minced garlic, sesame oil, toasted sesame seeds and just a touch of sugar makes a great, simple version of ssamjang.”
The burn-prevention tip: While it may sound obvious, it can be easy to take your eyes off whatever’s cooking on the barbecue. “Be diligent about flipping it often to prevent it from charring,” said Bang. If needed, rely on a timer to tell you when to flip.
What he cooks for a crowd: Bang orders meat from two of his restaurant’s suppliers: The Butcher Shoppe and Woodward, both of which have retail shops and online ordering.
“My go-to items are pork belly, pork shoulder or galbi, which we almost always enjoy with pickled or preserved banchan, ssamjang and a variety of ssam vegetables.”
Andrew Golden and Kris Hansen, owners of Golden Horseshoe Barbecue
Golden Horseshoe on Dupont Street has drawn lineups since it opened last fall, and for good reason. Andrew Golden and Kris Hansen have mastered the holy trinity of Texas barbecue: brisket, ribs and sausage, plus all the accompanying sides, seasonings and sauces. At home, in the absence of a full smoker, they recommend leaning into quick brines, savvy seasonings and a full spread of Texas-sized plates. “Grilling in the summer for large groups is the best,” said Hansen.
The rub secret: “When making your BBQ rub, skip the salt,” said Golden. Instead, add it to your protein directly, in order to properly measure how much salt you’re using.
The unexpected brine: When you’ve eaten all the pickles in a jar, hang onto what’s left. “Don’t throw out your pickle juice,” advised Golden. “Brine your wings in pickle juice for a couple hours for a great same-day brine.” The salty, tangy liquid will lock in the meat’s juiciness and add a kick of dill.
What they cook for a crowd: “Large steaks, wings tossed in a few sauces. Try quartering your hot dogs and dressing them in different ways,” said Hansen. Keep the sides simple, starring fresh, seasonal fruits and veggies served raw with simple, light dressings. “Take advantage of a farmers market!”
To keep things manageable, don’t make individual plates for everyone. “Just serve a ton of sharing plates and let your guests choose their own destiny.”
Matt Basile, founder of Fidel Gastro’s
Matt Basile almost exclusively cooks with live-fire or charcoal. The consulting chef has an intense fascination with grilling, kicked off when he founded the Fidel Gastro’s brand of street-food trucks, catering and pop-ups. Home is a condo with a small balcony, where he’s constantly cooking up meals on a smokeless charcoal grill and sharing videos of the process with his 62K Instagram fans. He’s also behind Alchemy Grills, a hybrid flat-top grill meets smoker-oven, with several different cooking zones fed by both charcoal and wood. Safe to say, he has some studied techniques that will upgrade any steak. “The way I show people I care for them is I cook for them, and as long as it’s not -12, I cook outdoors,” said Basile. “I was raised by my mom to really embrace the idea of hosting and dinner parties so I take a lot of pride in being able to carry on that tradition.”
The slow method: Basile tends to either reverse sear, which involves grilling over low heat then finishing in a hot cast-iron pan, or use indirect heat — low and slow.
“Steaks, chickens, even burgers and sausages — using patience brings out the very best flavour in what you’re cooking outdoors,” he said. “By not rushing the process, you’re ensuring maximum flavour and juiciness without having to do very much.”
One of his favourite things to make is BBQ chicken, cooked slowly over low on charcoal. “Most people absolutely char and ruin whole chicken on the barbecue. I prefer to slow roast it to perfection.”
The meal planning: “Pick five dishes and really master them,” advised Basile. “Make mistakes, make notes, make improvements, then use those five dishes as your go-to for barbecue-ing.”
If you’re working on a balcony or with a small space, you’ll need to plan out your cooking accordingly. “Map out what needs to hit the grill and when.”
The MVP ingredient: “Use more fresh lemon,” Basile said. ”You’d be shocked at how far a squeeze of fresh lemon on charred meat will take flavours, with salt and pepper.” For bonus points and mellowed flavour: Cut the lemons in half and char them on the grill, cut-side down, before squeezing.
What he cooks for a crowd: Basile serves everything family-style alongside bottles of rosé. “Something light as an app, like grilled peaches with burrata or a charred mushroom salad with octopus,” he said. “I’m a big fan of high-acidity side dishes to cut through the heaviness of a main: charred vinegar peppers or an Italian potato salad with smashed potatoes, shaved onion, olives, parsley and a red wine vinegar and olive oil dressing.”
When it comes to mains, he goes for beef roast or a statement steak, like a Tomahawk or Porterhouse, or pork ribs with different finishes. “Right now, honey, lime juice and Tajin is my fave.”
