Culinary director Craig Harding knows Italian food. He opened the long-mourned Toronto restaurant Campagnolo, runs La Palma, co-hosted “Cooking Italy” on TLN and now oversees Bar Prima, a newer Italian restaurant in the city. There, the focus extends beyond the food itself.
“Bar Prima has some serious pedigree behind it but we wanted the guest takeaway to be less about ‘look at the chefs’ technique’ and more about ‘look at the experience we are creating,’” he says. “The old-world, almost cinematic dining room makes guests feel they are in another era before the food hits the table.”
As for the menu, Harding says the kitchen balances familiar Italian dishes with contemporary influences. He points to the doppio agnolotti, featuring two seasonal fillings, and a Rockefeller-inspired dish made with PEI scallops and Parmigiano béchamel among his current favourites.
So where does Harding go when he’s not serving pasta? Here are a few of his favourite places to eat in Toronto.
Best date-night spot
Taverne Bernhardt’s, 202 Dovercourt Rd.
“It’s the perfect neighbourhood restaurant. Most people come for the roast chicken but I think the vegetable dishes are the star of the show. Bonus points for having the most amazing first date with Marie here and celebrating each anniversary since.”
Best bakery
Robinson Bread, 6 Brock Ave.
“Get the spelt cinnamon swirl.”
Hidden gem
Bar Sugo, 1279 Bloor St. W.
“It doesn’t get as much love as OG Sugo but I love a place where I can sit down to a large pizza on a pedestal, especially one that is baked in a wood oven.”
Repeat reservation
Bar Isabel, 797 College St.
“I stick to the script and the classics never disappoint: grilled octopus, pan con tomate, big shrimp a la plancha, and, of course, the Basque cake to finish.”
Current obsession
Edulis, 169 Niagara St.
“I keep thinking about their set-menu lunch on Sundays that is really whatever Toby and Michael feel like cooking that day but it really does transport you to Spain for the afternoon without the plane ticket to San Sebastián.”
Fancy dinner
Bisteccheria Sammarco, 4 Front St. E.
“Rob Rossi and David Minnicuci’s newest place is opulent Italian steakhouse so put on your fancy clothes and have a martini with some beautiful seafood and wash it down with a perfect piece of aged beef and a big juicy red. Make sure to get the chocolate cake to end the meal. Extra marks for incredible service with an insane over-the-top dining room.”
Comfort food
The Frederick, 10 Temperance St.
“A good burger is my kryptonite and this one was perfected years ago at the Harbord Room so bonus points for nostalgia. Add a crispy Diet Coke with crushed ice and I could die happy.”
Lunch spot
The Lunch Lady, 93 Ossington Ave.
“Order the carpaccio, which has the most addictive combo of peanuts, chili, Thai basil, mint and lime vinaigrette.”
Best late-night craving spot
Hanmoto, 2 Lakeview Ave.
“The stuffed wings are the perfect 2 a.m. bite. Meticulously deboned chicken wings are stuffed with seasoned ground chicken and fried until perfectly crispy and covered in a sweet and peppery glaze then served in a little takeout box.”
Best takeout
Mozy’s, 114 Atlantic Ave.
“This is the city’s best grilled chicken — whole birds are slowly roasted over charcoal by chef Barbode Soudi, with amazing dips and sides. It’s best to go for the whole-chicken dinner.”
Favourite coffee shop
Sam James Coffee Bar, various locations
“Can’t beat the cappuccino.”
Best cocktail bar
416 Snack Bar, 181 Bathurst St.
“It’s either going to be a Manhattan or if I’m feeling unfussy then I’ll order a ranch water, which is just a tequila soda with a ton of lime juice.”
Place I’m dying to try
Lake Inez, 1471 Gerrard St. E.
“I’ve heard such good things but I just have to get out of my Parkdale ‘hood and over to the east end.”
