Teo Paul has quietly built a mini empire on Ossington over the last two decades, opening Union in 2009 and Cote de Boeuf in 2013, and hosting the popular wine bar pop-up Bar Raton Laveur as of last year. His domain extends past the buzzy strip as well; he also owns Brasserie Cote in the Annex, along with Le Tambour in Hamilton and Heart’s Tavern in Kimberley. “The people who live (in Toronto) embrace their restaurants. Ever since I can remember, this has been a restaurant town and it’s a big reason this city is so great,” he says.
Over the years, many of Paul’s dishes have become famous, whether it’s the steak tartare, burger or lardon-loaded salad at Union; the roast beef sandwich at Cote de Boeuf; or the barbecued habanero wings at Le Tambour. Now, comfort classic enthusiasts can try their hand at crafting Paul’s comfort classics themselves with “Done Right,” his new cookbook that covers all the hits, and shares warm, vibrant stories of his life in the kitchen as well.
Whether it’s sticky ginger cake or steak and Dijon stew with root vegetables, Paul says, “the goal of the book is to inspire people to cook the food better than I could.”
So where does Paul go when he wants to eat and drink the best? Here are his recos for the yummiest GTA spots to hit ASAP.
Best date night
Bar Eugenie, 89 Harbord St.
“I’ve had a lot of good nights at the Harbord Room and Bar Eugenie brings it back and better. The room is beautiful, the food is high-level and easy to share, and the wine list is great, too. Makes you feel like you are somewhere else, which isn’t easy.”
Hidden gem
“Not so hidden anymore but still feels like it. It’s as if the chef got stoned in a hotel room one night and figured out the perfect restaurant menu. Simple, craveable and comforting. He hit all the marks and it’s all cooked by the best chef in the city. Cocktails are great, cold beer is there if needed, and the wine list always has some hits. Check, check and check.”
Repeat reservation
“The closest thing to going to Montreal. High-level cooking, room is tight and beautiful, food always hits home, wine list has lots of bangers. The whole night usually makes me want to become a better cook.”
Current obsession
Porzia’s, 319A Oakwood Ave.
“Talking to (owner) Baz is like talking to someone who has touched and knows the underbelly of restaurants. Kind of scary and fascinating at the same time. One thing for sure is that he is an excellent chef. Eating there is like eating high-level grandmother food. The calamari tastes like it was fed shrimp that was cooked perfectly in its shell, the crudo makes me want to go on a road trip in Italy and the tripe reminds me of being at my friend Tony’s for dinner when I was in Grade 6.”
Comfort food
Barberian’s Steak House, 7 Elm St.
“When my dad was alive, we’d go there for my birthday, so it is always comforting going in there and getting a birdbath-size martini, and big steak, and onion rings, and a bottle of wine from Piedmont.”
Lunch spot
Donna’s, 827 Lansdowne Ave.
“The best part about cooking lunch is you don’t have to overthink it because it’s not dinner, so you can just be and do. Donna’s is a lunch whisperer. She leans into it and does it right and it’s always great. Amazing sandwiches and specials, and they’re all really good people, too, working really hard.”
Best takeout
Gram’s Pizza, 1640 Dupont St.
“When I was a kid, my mom was taking a tax course every Tuesday night. My neighbour Suzanne would babysit and we’d get Pizza Delight. For some reason Gram’s hits just like Pizza Delight hit me as a kid on a school night in the fall.”
Best brunch spot
Daisy May’s, 968 Bathurst St.
“I’ve cooked so many desperate brunches I can’t really enjoy it anymore but I did hit Daisy May’s last Saturday. It has that hanging on hangover feel with less desperation, more control and execution. Lots of clanging and banging — kind of like watching a modern dance show but it all makes sense. The croque madame is tight, and smoked salmon benny clean, and they have a spigot, which I respect and enjoyed. French toast, too.”
Best cocktail bar
“A couple of years ago, (co-owner) Massi came to Le Tambour to teach us how to make drinks during our learning-curve years when a rye and ginger seemed beyond our reach. We have come a long way since then, and Massi is still crushing it, winning all the awards. I had a smoked-fig old fashioned last time I was there, and it took me somewhere good.”
